At the world premiere of Pistachio Wars, we caught up with director Rowan Wernham, whose eye-opening documentary exposes California’s industrial farming under The Wonderful Company, revealing environmental devastation and corporate influence extending far beyond pistachios.
One of the hottest world premieres of the 19th Doc Edge Festival was Pistachio Wars, co-directed by New Zealander Rowan Wernham, who was in attendance in Ōtautahi Christchurch to launch his debut feature documentary. The film is co-directed by Yasha Levine, an investigative journalist who has covered California politics for over a decade and is the author of Surveillance Valley.
How on earth could a company named “The Wonderful Company” do any harm to its environment, pollute its soil, take over its water, or even encourage an embargo on a whole country to undermine competition? Every time you hear the name of this company, it only sounds ironic given the depth and seriousness of its organized destruction of the environment and greed, despite its image of an active philanthropist.
In the eye-opening Pistachio Wars, journalist Yasha Levine uncovers a hidden side to California’s healthy snack industry. At the center of the story are billionaires Stewart and Lynda Resnick, founders of The Wonderful Company. They live in the flashiest mansion in Beverly Hills and have a monopoly on the pistachio trade. The problem is that they have taken control of California’s water—draining rivers, building plantations in the middle of a desert, and leaving a trail of environmental collapse.
The film delves into the environmental destruction left in the wake of the Resnicks’ control: towns ravaged by drought, farms built on oil fields, mass extinction, and a water heist straight from the plot of Chinatown. It even touches on international conflicts, like war with Iran, framing the narrative as a road trip into the dark heart of the American Dream.
One of the film’s greatest strengths is its ability to digest vast amounts of information and present a clear, big-picture view of the issues at hand, while maintaining a dense and comprehensive approach. Pistachio Wars excels at making complex topics understandable, offering a higher-level perspective that highlights the interconnected facets of ecological, economic, and social issues brought about by The Wonderful Company. Beyond its specific subject, the film exposes the mechanisms of oligarchy, capitalism, and lobbying that are applicable to many other fields.
The sense of spatiality in Pistachio Wars is another notable aspect. The use of aerial shots and archival footage provides a stark contrast between the lush wetlands of the past and the industrialized landscape of today. This visual approach effectively communicates the scale and impact of The Wonderful Company’s activities on California’s environment.
We were delighted to sit down with Rowan Wernham for a chat following the film’s world premiere.
Rowan Wernham acknowledges the challenges inherent in creating a film like Pistachio Wars, stating, “Making a film about the ravages of capitalism is tough. There are many stories about corporations behaving badly, and it’s hard to stand out.” Despite the saturation of narratives highlighting corporate malfeasance, Wernham’s debut feature manages to distinguish itself through its meticulous research and compelling storytelling. By focusing on the intricate and often overlooked details of California’s industrial farming industry and the powerful forces behind it, Pistachio Wars offers a fresh perspective that cuts through the noise.
The film’s depth is enriched by Yasha Lavine’s eloquent voiceover narration. Wernham emphasized the importance of providing historical context and a point of view in the documentary. He credited Yasha Lavine with insisting on this approach, which added depth to the film: “Yasha was insistent on giving historical context and having a point of view rather than just an observational film.” This method helps viewers understand the driving forces behind the development of industrial canals and other infrastructure.
When asked about what shocked him the most during this investigation, Wernham reflected on the transformation of Central California, and expressed his shock at the ecological devastation:
“The thing I find most shocking is comparing the images of the past—a lush wetland with abundant bird life—to now, a landscape dominated by industrial farming,” he said. This stark contrast underscores the environmental cost of agricultural development.
He added: “We’re actually making a side film called Zombie Lake about a lake that re-flooded recently. Many birds and other wildlife returned, but now they’re amidst roads, flooded farms, a sewage treatment plant at risk of flooding, and water rising to the edge of a prison. It’s a very weird kind of rewilding in the middle of a desolate, industrialized area. On a big picture level, the ecological devastation is the most horrific part for me.”
Wernham also spoke about the personal stories included in the documentary, which bring a human element to the larger issues. He shared an anecdote about a local resident, “We talked to a woman who had been living in Lost Hills for decades. She spoke about how the water quality has deteriorated over the years and how her family’s health has been affected. These personal stories are crucial in understanding the real impact of these industrial practices.”
Pistachio Wars also highlights smaller, yet equally disturbing issues, such as the water and health problems faced by residents in company towns like Lost Hills, where the inhabitants, who have been working for The Wonderful Company, cannot drink or consume the tap water that is heavily contaminated and marks their skin. Even traffic has become an issue in this town. Wernham noted, “You talk to kids, and they’ve seen people get killed on the road. Farm workers often die on these long highways.” Through impactful interviews with the inhabitants, the documentary paints a grim picture of the daily realities faced by those living and working in these areas.
The film also tackles the broader issue of climate change, linking it to overdevelopment and opportunism in California’s history. “We’re trying to communicate that climate change is just one of many problems we’re facing, alongside overdevelopment and opportunism that drives California’s development,” Wernham explained. This historical pattern includes cycles of real estate bubbles, oil booms, gold rushes, and now, the rise of snack food industries.
Discussing the impact of COVID-19 on the film’s production, Wernham described the bleak atmosphere during that time, which influenced the film’s tone. “A lot of it was written during COVID when everyone was locked down. Yasha was in LA with wildfire smoke, a new baby, and an orange haze over everything,” he recalled. This somber backdrop added an additional layer of urgency to the film’s message.
Wernham also delved deeper into the film’s thematic core, explaining how Pistachio Wars reflects on broader societal issues. “The people who first settled California thought they could re-engineer the landscape without understanding the interconnectedness of the world. Now, we have a more sophisticated awareness, but it’s hard to resist corporate entities that make a lot of money and have the resources to influence politics and public perception. The Wonderful Company, for instance, does some good things, but there’s a gloss over the deeper issues—lack of water, poor health care. It’s difficult to penetrate that facade.” he said.
Ultimately, Pistachio Wars sheds light on the intricate web of ecological, economic, and social issues tied to industrial farming in California. As Wernham aptly put it, “It’s not just about pistachios or even just about California. It’s about understanding how industrial agriculture affects all of us, wherever we live.”
The Kiwi filmmaker is now looking ahead and is well aware that the film can be used to raise awareness. One of the film team’s creative efforts in this regard was distributing parody packs of pistachios with labels referencing environmental issues. “We made some weird little packs of pistachios with extinct fish and oil-based flavors and gave them out in Washington Square Park,” he recounted. This playful yet provocative action aimed to spark conversations and draw attention to the complex issues tackled in Pistachio Wars.
Furthermore, in addition to securing festival screenings, Wernham mentioned that Yasha, the co-director, even went out and protested at some museums where the Resnicks had been donating money. “These protests were quite small—just him with a sign and a megaphone causing a nuisance—but they managed to get some coverage on art blogs.” he said.
Yet, this is no easy task. “The funny thing about that was the response from The New York Times. They told us they were doing a piece about the Resnicks and some of the criticism against them, but it turned out to be a complete puff piece. The New York Times published an article with glossy photographs of the Resnicks, talking about their philanthropy. It was pretty embarrassing for a paper like The New York Times, which is supposed to be credible. It was written by a culture reporter, likely friendly with the galleries we were criticizing, who ended up writing a very flattering piece about them.” Wernham told us.
In discussing how corporate tactics extend beyond agriculture, Rowan Wernham highlighted, “It’s also interesting how the company handles the issue with these tactics and strategies. It’s essentially the same in other fields.” Wernham pointed out the core issue, noting, “The basic idea is that the State, even a democratic one, doesn’t respond to the people but to the most powerful industry leaders and corporations—essentially billionaires.”
In conclusion, Pistachio Wars is a necessary watch. The film exposes the harsh realities of California’s industrial farming, revealing the environmental havoc caused by corporate giants like The Wonderful Company, in a very compelling way. Pistachio Wars will definitely ignite vital discussions, and we hope the film reaches the widest and most engaged audience possible.
We are thrilled to be covering Doc Edge 2024 on the ground in Ōtautahi Christchurch, New Zealand. Explore our exclusive coverage here.
